One of London’s oldest restaurants, the lovingly restored 280 year old townhouse of Soho institution L’Escargot also functions as a members club for an eccentric mix of artists and foodies. The dining room is both luxurious and cosy, with deep burgundy sofas and inviting banquets. A spacious seating plan allows you to feel cocooned in a private tête-à-tête even as you people watch. Lively young couples and groups of friends enjoyed the new bottomless brunch deal, now available every Sunday from 11am- 4pm for £24.95.
We started our all you can eat session rather unimaginatively, though absolutely deliciously, with the house specialty: l’escargots, accompanied by a refreshing French 75 Laurent-Perrier cocktail. Our over-eagerness to excavate shells dripping in garlic and parsley butter may have sprayed the table, but the rather dishy French waiters refrained from passing comment. Instead, they handed us another breadbasket to mop up the gloriously golden-green liquid from our plates.
By the luminous front windows, chef Felicity can whip up sweet and savoury crêpes of your own design, or you can indulge by filling your plate from the buffet with, among other things, beetroot and goat’s cheese salad, smoked salmon and fresh Viennoiserie. We tried the spinach and wild mushroom and berry and maple syrup crêpes, which were bursting with flavour, light and delicately crisp. Full English or ‘full French’ breakfasts are also on offer, though we opted for the roast beef with Yorkshire pudding. It was a classic roast, done simply and well: the beef was tender, the pudding fluffy, the potatoes crispy, floating in a pool of rich gravy sauce.
For (minutely) healthier fare, a variety of egg specials are available, including omelettes, avocado and poached egg, eggs Benedict, Royale or Florentine. However, that would be rather defeating the point of the bottomless brunch at L’Escargot- we recommend you arrive early, with good friends and a Sunday paper, order a spicy Bloody Mary and share a little bit of everything at your leisure.
Originally published at Eclectic Magazine online.