Scandi Feel with a Brit Twist at KuPP, Paddington Basin Review

Although the canal in Paddington Basin can’t compare to the charms of Copenhagen or Stockholm, you can have a little taste of waterside Scandi style at KuPP, the new fusion all day dining restaurant. Their grazing and sharing plates, sourced from the best British and Scandinavian suppliers, include classics such as smoked pork meatballs, fish and rye bread. However, you can also avail yourself of a burger or steak if you fancy a familiar meal in a cheerful setting. The expansive, colourful and airy room was buzzing with patrons and the faint hum of neon signage.

We started with the pork meatballs in a beer sauce with chicory salad and the Hansen & Lydersen smoked salmon with crispbread and sour cream. Served on cutting boards, they were fresh, light and delicately flavourful, to which the Aquavit cocktails made a refreshing accompaniment. As a main, the half lobster with crispy, skinny fries was a good price at £17, though perhaps the Nordic stomach is made of stronger stuff as it was slightly undercooked by English standards. The warm, comforting textures of butternut squash with roast chicken and wilted kale salad were made more complex by a mixture of aged Danish blue, smoked onion and lingonberry dressing. All the salads look very tempting; for those couples torn between conflicting diets, KuPP offers a range of both healthy and indulgent options.

To finish, we shared the white chocolate and pepparkakor ginger biscuit cheesecake with fresh raspberries. It was just the right balance of sweet, tart and creamy, dolloped on top of a generous, crumbly crust. The toasted banana bread was a thick slab of honey drizzled cake, less gooey than the English style but with a satisfyingly festive taste to its cinnamon ice cream. For a Scandi feel with a Brit twist (or perhaps the other way around?) KuPP is a comfortable café for a leisurely lunch (or breakfast, brunch and dinner), as well as being a good spot to settle down with your computer if you work in the area.

Originally published for Eclectic Magazine online.